The nine French Popes and Antipopes who lived here built themselves a mini-Vatican in the 14th Century, with high walls to keep the people out. The square pictured here was the result of clearing houses away from the walls to keep trouble at arm's length. Avignon is a remarkably well-preserved medieval city, very lively in summer with the arts festival, but you may prefer it, as I do, as it is here in January.

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